Leather and Leather Upholstery Furniture Care
There are various types and grades of leathers, each serving a different purpose. Some require a bit more maintenance than others, but all follow a set guideline of care to ensure a longer life.
Cleaning:
To clean leather upholstery, first choose a cleaner that will help preserve the natural lubricating oils instead of stripping them. For example, saddle soap is a commonly used product for equestrian tack. It is meant to be used as a cleaner and a protector from moisture but it strips the leather of the oils in the process of attempting to do two jobs at once. The cleaner should not leave any greasy residue behind. Residue makes leather susceptible to bacteria and can break down the stitching of leather furniture. Before applying anything to leather furniture, be certain to test it out for effect and possible color distortion on an area that isn't visible to the eye. With a slightly dampened cloth, remove the cleaning product. For areas with stitches, there are brushes available on the market. Another cleaning product to consider having in your leather care collection is a nubuck cleaning cloth. They have an astonishing ability to clean and restore leather to its original look.
Protection:
Moisture barriers are extremely crucial in preventing rain or other liquid hazards from damaging leather. Stiffness and spouting will happen if leather isn't protected beforehand. There is a drawback in protecting leather with a moisture barrier product. Periodically apply a moisture barrier and allow it time to penetrate and dry.
Removing Mildew:
To remove mildew from leather, create a mixture of one-cup rubbing alcohol per one-cup of water. Wipe the mildew area with a cloth dipped in the diluted alcohol, and then allow it to dry. If the mildew persists, use mild soap and water that contains a germicide, then remove with a clean dampened cloth and allow drying.
Wet Leather:
An important key to keep leather in top-notch condition is to treat wet leather before it has a chance to dry. Remove any dirt, mud, or other stains with a cleaning agent, then condition while the pores are still fully responsive. It is critical to remember that leather should be dried away from heat.
Removing Stains:
Fresh stains such as blood and food can be cleaned up quickly with a damp cloth. Stains from oil or grease can be lifted by grinding ordinary blackboard chalk, sprinkling the area, and leaving the powder on for a twenty-four hour period. After a sufficient time has past, simply use a leather care brush to remove the powder. While fresh stains can be treated and cleaned at home, ground-in stains should be attended to by a professional cleaner who deals in leather.
Fabric and Fabric Upholstery Furniture Care:
If you have upholstered furniture perhaps the best way to take care of the pieces is to "preventive clean" them. If you don't keep the upholstery clean, dust and soil will eventually seep into the fabric and the stuffing, and this will encourage fibers to disintegrate.
A lot of the new fabrics are treated the protective finishes that last for years but that doesn't mean the fabric doesn't still need care. Either it has been treated at the factory or perhaps you have sprayed a protective coating on it when you brought it home, either way you have to keep it clean for it to last.
The best idea is to brush all exposed area with an upholstery brush or even a light whisk broom. Remove all the cushions first of all from off the frames if possible.
You will need to use the crevice tool to get at areas on for example your couch that the upholstery brush or whisk broom can't enter. A helpful hint also would be to use the dusting attachment for all napped fabrics (velvets, velours, etc.) and the upholstery nozzle for smoother fabrics.
Should you decide to shampoo your upholstered fabric there are a few cautions that may be in order. Some fabrics may not be color fast, others may have glued on trim which could be removed by the moisture from the shampooing. Also you could have shrinking as a result of some cleaners.
It is best to test the fabric in an inconspicuous area first to determine if it is washable.
If you have velvet or a similar pile fabric or if it is extremely fragile, you might not shampoo it yourself as this fabric needs professional care.
There are three do it yourself methods, Commercial Foam Cleaners, Dry Cleaning fluid or Powder.
Commercial Foam Cleaners are products you may find more convenient and trust more than making your own suds.
If you choose Dry Cleaning Method. Should you look in your local store or perhaps go to a store that specializes in cleaning products. Please open all windows before using these products, dust first, and then take a piece of clean Turkish toweling and dip into the dry cleaning solution, wring almost dry. Using a circular motion, clean a small area at a time, rinsing and wringing the cloth dry after each application. As you go along overlap the areas that you clean.
The Powder method will require that you spread newspapers around on the floor on the base of the furniture, then sprinkle the cleaning powder on the fabric and leave on for several hours or overnight, then brush off with a soft clean brush and vacuum with your attachments. This method is best for removal of fresh grease stains or for overall greasy soil.
If you decide to use any of the above three methods or you have a professional clean your upholstery you will have added years to the life of your beautiful upholstery and also years of enjoyment
Wooden Furniture Care
Wooden furniture care may not as hard as you think. Below are some key elements:
Heat, humidity and hardwoods:
Hard wood furniture is crafted from wood that is carefully dried, retaining just enough moisture for the furniture to properly acclimate to the relative humidity in your home. The wood in furniture continues to exchange moisture with the air, shrinking and expanding in response to changes in relative humidity.
Like your own skin, solid hardwood furniture's natural response to extremely dry air is to lose moisture and shrink a bit. The halves of an extension table may part slightly or a few tiny openings may appear on a solid wood surface. This will correct itself as the relative humidity rises, and the hardwood absorbs enough moisture to expand slightly.
Here are some ways to ensure your solid hardwood furniture's longevity:
I). Use a humidifier in the winter and an air conditioner in the summer to keep the relative humidity at 25 to 35 percent.
II). Avoid placing hardwood furniture directly in front of radiators, heat runs or fireplaces.
III). Don't expose hardwood furniture to continuous direct sunlight. Draw the curtains occasionally.
IV). Store table leaves as close as possible to the table. Keep them in an upstairs closet rather than in a damp basement, so that the table leaves are adjusting to the same relative humidity.
Tender loving care: It's surprisingly simple to protect and enhance hardwood's natural beauty. All that's needed is some tender, loving care. Here are a few tips from the experts:
I). Read the manufacturer's care directions for wood furniture carefully and keep them handy for future reference.
II). Hardwood furniture surfaces also can be cleaned with a mild non-alkaline soap and water. Use the suds on a damp sponge or cloth, but be sure to pretest the solution on an out-of-sight-section to make sure it doesn't damage the finish. Dry immediately with a soft cloth and buff lightly, following the grain.
III). Hardwood finishes benefit from an occasional waxing or polishing. A paste wax can be applied every six to twelve months. Remove old wax first with a mild non-alkaline soap and water solution.
IV). Avoid waxing urethane-finished furniture. Waxing these surfaces causes them to gather dust and dirt rather than repel it.
Repairs made simple:
Minor damage to solid hardwood furniture can be repaired quickly and effectively with the right materials, a bit of elbow grease, and some careful attention to detail. More complex repair or refinishing jobs are best left to professionals.
Scratch and Nick First Aid: When preparing to repair small nicks or scratches, always test an inconspicuous area of the furniture first to make certain the mixture won't damage the finish.
Finish
Treatment
Dark Wood or Stain
Fill scratches with shoe polish that matches the lightest shade of the finish, or rub with walnut or Brazil nut meat in the direction of the scratch. A child's crayon or felt-tipped marker can also be used for wood furniture care.
Cherry
Fill the scratches with cordovan or reddish shoe polish that matches the wood, or apply darkened iodine with a cotton swab or thin artist's brush.
Light Wood or Stain
Fill scratches with a tan or natural shoe polish, or apply darkened iodine diluted 50 percent with denatured alcohol to the hardwood furniture.
Stain removal:
Today's high-performance finishes demand special and wood furniture care when it comes to stain removal. While there are countless remedies for stains, some may damage the furniture's finish. If you're at all unsure, you should call a professional refinisher to take care of it.
These common stains often can be treated with do-it-yourself furniture first aid. But bear in mind: always test your remedy on a small area to see if it removes the stain without disturbing or damaging the finish.
Stain
Treatment
Water Marks & Rings
Often, rings are in the wax, not the finish. Cover the stain with a clean, thick blotter, press down with a warm iron, and repeat. Or rub with salad oil, mayonnaise or white toothpaste. Wipe dry and wax or polish.
White Marks
Rub with a cloth dipped in a mixture of cigarette ashes and lemon juice or salad oil. Or rub with a cloth dipped in lighter fluid, followed by a mixture of rottenstone and salad oil. Wipe dry and wax or polish.
Milk or Alcohol
Use your fingers to rub liquid or paste wax into the stain. Or rub in a paste of boiled linseed oil and rottenstone with the grain, substituting pumice for dull finishes. Or rub with ammonia on a dampened cloth. Wipe dry and wax or polish.
Other home remedies:
During everyday use, your hardwood furniture may be subjected to mishaps and spills which temporarily mar its finish.
Problem
Treatment
Cigarette Burns (light)
Rub with scratch-concealing polish, or with a paste of linseed oil and rottenstone, working with the grain until the burn mark disappears.
Heat Marks
Rub gently along the grain, using a dry steel wool soap pad or a cloth dampened with camphorated oil or mineral spirits, or rub gently along the grain with extra-fine (0000) steel wool. Wipe clean and wax or polish.
Nail Polish
Blot the spill immediately, then rub with fine steel wool (0) dipped in wax. Wipe dry and wax or polish.
Paint Marks
If fresh, remove latex paint with water and oil-based paint with mineral spirits. If dry, soak spot in boiled linseed oil, wait until paint softens and lift carefully with a putty knife or wipe with cloth dampened with boiled linseed oil. Residue can be removed by rubbing along the grain with a paste of boiled linseed oil and rottenstone. Wipe dry and wax or polish.
Sticking Paper
Dampen the paper thoroughly with salad oil, wait five minutes and rub along the grain with extra-fine (0000) steel wool. Wipe dry and wax or polish.
Wax or Gum
Harden the substance by holding an ice cube wrapped in cloth against it, then use your fingernail or plastic credit card to remove it. Rub the area with extra-fine (0000) steel wool dipped in mineral spirits. Wipe dry and wax or polish.
Keep your hardwood furniture looking great:
Hardwood furniture is made to be used and enjoyed and accidents happen. Especially when there are small children at home. Take these steps to keep damage from everyday life to a minimum:
I). Use coasters to prevent spills, stains and damage from hot dishes.
II). Blot all spills immediately. Keep solvents, alcohol, nail polish and polish removers away from your hardwood furniture surfaces.
III). Always lift lamps and other objects - don't slide them across the furniture's surface.
IV). Always lift hardwood furniture to move it - don't drag it.
V). Open and close doors, drawers and lids gently.
